Climbing Larkya peak, an NMA Peak

• by admin@manaslu
• 15 December 2011
• 3 comments
• Manaslu blog Manaslu climbing

The Manaslu area of Gorkha District has many climbing opportunities, however there is very limited information about them. The most popular is of course one of Nepal Mountaineering Associations “Trekking Peaks”. Trekking peak does not mean it can be climbed simply by trekkers, this is mountaineering.

This guide was prepared by Paulo Grobel. Many more images and descriptions (in French) are available on his website.

1. The NMA peak Thulo Larkya to the right of the frame © Paulo Grobel. Photo taken from Rui La.

Sano (small) Larkya Peak (5,807 m)

The approach from base camp near to the Larkye La (5,135m).

2. The basecamp is on a large area of flat ground just below the Larkye La. There is a lake here also making it unmissable.

Sano Larkye can be climbed in a long day from this base camp.  However, to climb Thulo Larkye, a high camp is needed, positioned just at the top of the blue lines marked below.

3. The route to Larkya Peak on the left is a little less steep and a fixed rope is not necessary. © Paulo Grobel

4. Sano (small) Larkya peak. © Paulo Grobel

A panoramic view of Sanu Larkya Peak from Thulo Larkya. The normal ascent is via the blue route. The true summit, marked with a red line, is a little beyond the point where everyone stops. This is the route in red.

The route normally taken is in blue, to a false summit less than 6,000m, but the true summit is marked with a red dot. The red dots show a possible route to the top of this peak, which may be easier than the ridge. This ridge is feasible however.

The small dot at the base of the blue line is the camp! Very small …

5. High camp (5,650m) for Thulo and Sano Larkye. Thulo Larkye seen in the background.

6. Shows the steepness approaching high camp

7. Approaching false summit

8. Getting to false summit of Sano Larkye. A false summit but beautiful climbing.

9. Summit of Sano Larkye Peak – Grade II/AD

Looking along ridge to Sano Larkye true summit 5,807m – perhaps 2 hours?

Thulo Larkye (6,249m)

This is easier that Sano Larkye. Sano Larkye is chosen to do because you can do with out the high camp – and it is smaller. Thulo is actually easier than Sano Larkye. Best option for climbers is to make a high camp and then complete both peaks.

Thulo Larkye in the background, Grade III/PD

looking back at sano larkye peak manaslu paulo grobel

thulo larka and samdo tower

“Trekking” peaks in Nepal

Here you can find other trekking peaks in Nepal. Click on any peak to learn more.

Nepal trekking peaks website

Read also more here about NMA Trekking and Climbing Peaks in Nepal.